Espresso Dreams: Dumaguete

Cafe Memento Dumaguete

In daydreams I go back to Negros Oriental – the hum of the waters in Valencia, the beaches of Siaton and Dauin, the sandbar of Manjuyod, the vast sugar cane plantations of Bais and Tanjay, the rustic charm of Dumaguete, and the spectacular marine life of the famed Apo Island.

People come to Dumaguete for a variety of reasons – to go to school, to retire, to marry. Some just want to satiate their curiosity, while others visit the place to reminisce. A mere tourist calls it Dumaguete, but a true habitué knows it as Doomsville – a term of endearment given by those who call the city home, or at least have an intense love affair with Dumaguete.

A pleasant brew of the old and the new, of the quaint and the sophisticated, and of the naive and the urbane; Doomsville is a charming little city that’s a far cry from your typical blah provincial capital. Whether you’re craving for adventure or you just want to laze around, there’s always something for everyone in Dumaguete.

Cafe Memento Dumaguete

One of the many reasons that made people silly about the city is the whole café culture, which can be broken down based on the ages of its patrons. (This may not be true now, but in my time, there's some sort of an age barrier that ran across it.) The high-end coffee shops, like Cafe Mamia and Don Atilano, have the older generation as clientele. Here, you can observe glamorous albeit near-senescent women sitting around chatting about their apo’s, their haciendas and generally, about times past. Restaurants that serve international cuisines, like Coco Amigos and Le Chalet, are the usual hangout joints of expats who just want to lounge around while enjoying the interesting boulevard scene and the beautiful sea views.

The coffee scene for the younger set, on the other hand, paints a more exciting café atmosphere. This can be categorized into three. First, you have the coffee shops for the non-smoking crowd; Lee Cimballi, Dunkin’ Donuts and Cafe Antonio to name a few. Here, you can see students studying hastily for their next-hour exams. Or folks who just want to-see-and-be-seen.

Cafe Memento Dumaguete

Second is the daytime café where college students and young professionals trot busily in and out, drowning their somnolent carcasses with caffeine. They also use this opportunity to zone out and get their minds off academic stuff and deadlines – sip barako, eat quesadillas, play cards, sit together to chat, or simply, just chill out. Sted’s, Dumaguete Travel and Cafe Memento fall into this category.

This ritual continues throughout the day. And soon, even the most reluctant participant becomes an active component in the daily spectacle. And with the setting of the sun emerges the night café scene of bars and rum-mills which enhances the city’s nocturnal

exuberance. This completes the whole café equation of Dumaguete. By this time, the barako is already accentuated by a dose of alcohol – either by Red Horse or Tanduay – and more often than not, with a pack or two of Marlboro and/or you-know-what. And during this time, a relaxing and extended night with friends begins.

My history as a coffee drinker stems from this small, unpretentious coffee shop along Silliman Ave called Cafe Memento. And true to its name, wherever one goes, one carries with him the memories and the sense of home of Dumaguete.

UPDATE: Café Memento has been replaced by a fancier restaurant called Moon Café. My friend, Bruce, called me up a couple months earlier, ranting to no end about how betrayed and scandalized he felt when he learn about Café Memento’s evaporation. I know exactly how you feel. Perhaps no one can honestly say they're okay with it. I have talked to several people and as expected, most of them were very emotional about it. Well, that's how life's supposed to be. So let's move on. UPDATE: I have learned that Mamia's a goner as well.

My last and final Cafe Memento visit

I miss staring at his wall while having my morning barako.

The photos above were taken during my last visit to Dumaguete in 2010.

I didn't know, it'd be the last time.

Thanks for the memories, Memento.

Author's Note: Some parts of this entry were first published sometime in 2007. And I know there have been a lot of coffee shops cropping up all over Dumaguete. But, as cheesy as it sounds, Cafe Memento will always be first in my book. SHOUT OUT TO MY CAFE MEMENTO GROUP!!!

Posted in: Cafe Memento, dumaguete, negros, Silliman University, Travel